Skåne calling

Each year when Easter rolls around, I'm surprised by how much a 4-day holiday can do to break up a long winter from the start of a struggling spring. This year, spring is still struggling, although I've heard promises of a turnaround from tomorrow(!). One can only hope.

Anyways, a quick glance back at our Easter adventure in the southern Swedish region of Skåne...

Swedes+Easter=feathers everywhere

First of all, let me explain that Easter in Sweden is a little bit like Halloween in the States. Except everyone dresses up as the same thing - an Easter witch. Just imagine the cutest witch you've ever seen knocking on your door: hankerchief tied around the head, freckles and rosy cheeks painted on the face, long skirts with aprons over-top, and a of course a broom in hand for fast get-aways. 

The kids make dozens of little "Happy Easter!" cards to hand out at each household. How sweet is that? In return, they get candy. We had two covens of witches at our door the Thursday before Easter, and sadly, were incredibly unprepared with zero candy - but they just smiled and wished us a Glad Påsk. My heart nearly melted!

Okay, back to our Easter road trip. We headed down to the charming town of Helsingborg on Friday, stopping for lunch in a tiny village called Gränna, home of the infamous Swedish peppermint candy, to break up the 6-hour drive. 

the view from Kärnan - and that's Denmark across the water

Perhaps it was because of the warm, sunny weather, but in the 20 hours we were there, I fell in love with Helsingborg. On the map, it's Sweden's closest point to Denmark in the southwest corner. Between the two countries is a 20-minute ferry ride across the sound of Oresund. With a population of 100,000, it's the perfect size - and so beautiful! 

Our friends J&J showed us the best of Helsingborg on Friday night with a gorgeous, sunset dinner at Sillen & Makrillen (thanks guys!) and drinks at one of the downtown clubs. And on Saturday, NS and I wandered through downtown and climbed to the top of the medieval tower, Kärnan, the highest point in the city.

afternoon tea in the suuuuuuun!

We said goodbye to Helsingborg on Saturday afternoon and headed to Örenäs Slott (castle) for an incredible champagne weekend. Afternoon tea (with champagne); truffles in our room (with champagne); oyster hors d'oeuvres (with champagne); a 7-course dinner; and brunch the next morning - yep, that had champagne, too. 

I've never had so much bubbly - or food - in my life, and in such a beautiful setting. The castle overlooks a grassy ridge over Oresund sound and is surrounded by farmland. It was divine. And a slightly different experience from last time we were there in 2010 ;) Thank you J&M for an amazing wedding gift we will never forget!!

On Easter Sunday, we visited dear friends in the neighboring town of Lund to celebrate baby H's first birthday, and then drove onward to stay with NS' grandmother in Malmö for the night. 

Our trip ended with a stop in Nimis, a place unlike any other I've ever been to. In the summer of 1980, a very eccentric Swedish man named Lars Vilks decided, among other unusual projects, to start building an enormous, castle-like structure out of driftwood - and call it Nimis. He's been nailing away ever since. From my understanding, this castle has actually been declared a country of it's own, proclaimed so by Vilks himself. 

To get to Nimis, we had to drive out to a remote spot along Sweden's west coast. Then hike through a forest, following a series of yellow "N"s painted sporadically along the way. The trail eventually sloped down to the water's edge, and then, all of a sudden became a tunnel of driftwood haphazardly nailed together every which way. The tunnel continues downward - downward - downward - and then starts upward to several shakey towers (which of course we climbed). 

We climbed all over this chaotic structure, and when we'd had enough climbing, we found ourselves "surfing" along the nearly vertical, leaf-covered ground leading down to Nimis (this leaf surfing was not quite intentional, but rather a slightly indirect route out).

Nimis was quite an experience, to say the least, and a very memorable end to our southern escapade through the wild side of Sweden.

Stockholm is waking up again

Spring is in the air. Summer really. Not so much in the temperature, but more in the whole ambiance of Stockholm. The sun helps. But it's more the attitude. 

Schools are closed this week for Easter. And the streets are a bit sparse in the mornings. Some offices have signed off already for the occasion. This Friday and next Monday are national holidays, but I guess they figure why wait? In fact, some offices are even off next week, too. Easter is certainly a big deal for a country with so little religion. 

Not that I'm complaining. It's glorious! 

Half of my office is empty. My received emails are down by about 3/4. And this is just the start of the season. The pace will only slow down more as summer gets closer. May is scattered with sporadic, mid-week days off (also religiously affiliated). And once June hits, the offices won't be full again until September. I swear it's true.  

photo inspiration: GAE

 

These coming 4 Easter days off could not be better timed. To celebrate our temporary freedom, NS and I are road-tripping down south to Skåne [pronouced Sko-nay - emphasis on the Sko], the southern region of Sweden. Strangely enough, Skåne has been a part of Sweden for less time than Finland. Sweden's deep south - another world, some say. We shall see for ourselves.

Anyway, I'll be back next week to tell of our travel adventures. And God willing have a bit of color - come on sun!!

Påsk i Riksgränsen

Påsk=Easter

Riksgränsen=one of the most beautiful places in the world

My shins are still a bit sore from my ski boots, but it's a sore I don't want to go away. It reminds me of our incredible Easter holiday in the Arctic Circle, in a tiny place called Riksgränsen. Just next to the Swedish-Norwegian border, you can't get much further north than this beautiful oasis of winter wonder.


The tiny town of Riksgränsen, where only half a dozen people live all-year round, is not easily accessible - it's an 18-hour train ride from Stockholm (which turned into 22 hours for us). But that's exactly what makes it so great: it's off the beaten track.

just a few reindeer running around the slopes, totally normal

Imagine skiing in complete powder on a mountain of your own. That's how it felt, there were so few people. At least, when it was snowing. But even on the sunny days, it was easy to feel secluded on one of the many off-pistes.


We stayed in NS' aunt and uncle's charming cabin, where we had a stunning view of the mountains and the cozy warmth of a sauna to come home to after a full day on the slopes. It was heaven.

the whole crew, just before we said goodbye

And how nice it is to actually come home from a holiday feeling more healthy than when you left! Although now back at my office desk, the effects of skiing all day are slowly wearing away...

Thank you Syks for a fantastic Easter holiday! Jag saknar det redan och hoppas att komma tilbaka snart : )

the Swedish Easter tradition: feathers in trees