2013 3 days in

They say 13 is an unlucky number. I'm hoping they're wrong, although my hailing in 2013 was not under the best of circumstances as I sprawled on the couch recovering from a stomach flu. 

On the bright side, at least I didn't have to start dieting - my body did it for me. Whether from food poisoning or the notorious vinterkräksjukan (a highly contagious stomach bug which is rampant through Sweden's well-insulated houses this time of year), it was over in a day, thank God. And since then, 2013 has been on the up. Well... almost anything is on the up when you're sick.

so excited for 2013

As for resolutions, I've decided to de-clutter my life, both physically and mentally. Anyone who knows me knows that I am a collector of all sorts - clothes, shoes, sea glass, text messages, scraps of paper, every thank you note and invitation I've ever received - they're all here, and I cannot seem to part with them. Not so convenient for someone who moves somewhat frequently, but what can I say - I'm sentimental. 

However, I have recently been struck by the urge to get rid of stuff. (Perhaps the fact that since Christmas, my clothes do not all fit in my drawers has something to do with it.) Either way, I'm taking advantage of the urge while it lasts and plan to get rid of one thing every day for as long as I can. Quality over quantity, right? 

As for the mental de-clutter, I'm trying to find a balance and focus on the important things. As they say, don't sweat the small stuff.

I'll let you know how long it lasts, but I can happily report I'm going strong 3 days in. What is your New Years Resolution?

Cozy Christmas in Västervik

Our Christmas holiday started last Friday with a bus trip to Västervik on Senior Svenssons' double-decker bus on one of the year's busiest days of travel in the midst of a snowstorm. Miraculously, we made it in just over 4 hours, only 15 minutes late. 

From Friday night through to our return to Stockholm on Wednesday evening, we gathered around the table - many tables actually - of family and ate and drank to our hearts content - and then some. We enjoyed the gorgeous winter scenes in the few hours of sunlight which reached our northern latitudes, and lit candles and fires in the cozy evenings. 

Friday was in fact the shortest day of the year with sunrise at 8:44 and sunset at 2:48 - 6 precious hours, all of which were cloud-covered. No matter, the snowy wonderland brought the perfect white Christmas. And the next day, a slushy soup ensued overnight from the cold rain. Now the streets and sidewalks are a dirty, icy mess - so much for my cross country ski training, for now at least.

Julbord in the Sky

Or at least as high as possible in Stockholm. On Saturday night, we ventured across the city to Fåfängen Restaurant for the infamous Swedish Julbord, or Christmas table. 

our julbord - the after shot (sorry, was too busy eating for any others)

The Julbord is (naturally) a smörgåsbord - with pretty much the same foods every time - consisting of a wide variety of pickled herring (sill), meatballs, beet salad, johnsson's temptation potatoes, prince sausage, cabbage - the list goes on. Ours also had bear meatballs and some sashimi to shake things up a bit. Oh, and most important - the snaps.

Fåfängen means the vanity, and so this highly perched restaurant was named for its location at the top of a mountain, overlooking the entire city of Stockholm, and where people in the old days came to see and be seen. 

I don't think we were seen by many, as a snowy dark winter night is not the best time to parade atop a mountain. But is indeed the perfect time to gorge oneself on portion after portion of hearty holiday fare. And so we did. We ate; we drank; we sang; we were merry. And a serious food coma set in shortly thereafter. Fortunately, I was able to overcome this temporary incapacitation in time for continuing on to the city for a few late-night drinks.

Post-Julbord, I sweat out my copious over-eating in the steamy sauna, broken up by plunges in some very, very cold water. Guarding the long staircase leading down to the little hut of heat, I found this gorgeous Christmas tree. We also have one in front of our apartment building, the side of which looks like a bite has been taken out of it. No matter - it's a welcome light in the darkness.

our Luciatåg - Lucia train - today

And while I'm on the subject of Christmas (I can't seem to avoid it - not that I mind), today is Lucia in Sweden! On December 13, Sweden celebrates St. Lucia, a saint rumored both to have been Adam's first wife and to have consorted with the Devil. 

Today, people - mostly children - dress up in long white robes as star boys or tärnor (the name for the girls - any good translations out there?), and one lucky girl gets chosen to be Lucia herself. The entourages travel through the city singing traditional Swedish carols and bringing light to one of the darkest days of the year. 

Happy First Advent

Sunday was the first Advent and here in Stockholm,
that means you can put up your Christmas decorations!


our first Christmas wreath

It doesn't sound like a big deal, but really it is. Waiting through weeks of increasing darkness for the moment to hang our shining star (jultjärna) brightly in the window can seem like forever. And this occasion must not be a day before the First Advent. But as of Sunday, our apartment is full of holiday cheer with Christmas candles (adventljusstaker) and star in the window flanked by red curtains, berries in a vase, and a wreath on the door.

I am also happy to report that my patience for snow has paid off as well - since last Thursday, Stockholm has been cloaked in a beautiful winter wonderland. The temperatures have also dropped to -15C, but I can't say I mind - my super-duper down jacket keeps me warm (most of the time), and when everything is so bright and gorgeous, I can't complain. I just hope this snow keeps up all winter! Now to find my sled...

And a couple pictures from the Gamla Stan Christmas market on Saturday - 

November in a Flash

November has flown by, and with it, the darkness has arrived here in Stockholm. Our trip to the States last week broke up the onset of winter drear, but the return was all too fast of a transition to what seem like sunless days.

There is a rawness to the air that could be described as exhilarating on a good day. The cold wetness is marked by running noses and rosy cheeks, and thanks to my new gum boots, I'm not afraid of trekking through muddy splotches before the ground compacts to its annual frozen state. 

Truly, I love winter - but mostly because of the snow. And since it hasn't come yet, I'm doing my best to persevere, waking up each morning in hopes that the thermometer has sunk to negative temps. No such luck lately.

In the meantime, we've been enjoying Thanksgiving dinners, from cold cut turkey sandwiches to the whole shebang; the start of glögg season (the incredibly delicious Swedish version of mulled wine, served only in the Christmas season); lussekatt (a Swedish saffran bun, also served only during Christmas); and catching up on sleep from jet-lag, which seems to get worse with each trip we take. 

Mushy Peas are the Caviar of the UK

December in London is a beautiful time of year. The cold hazy days are cozy, whereas by February they'll feel more bleak and depressing. Green garlands of decorations adorn every possible surface and post, and Christmas trees line the streets, begging to be carried home. In the midst of all this holiday spirit, I find myself sitting in my old flat, on the new, marvelously comfortable couch, waiting for.... the dishwasher repairman. Not a very romantic picture of my 2-week visit to London, but I must say I actually appreciate the excuse to sit on said couch, doing literally nothing but watching Sky TV, for once the sole decision-maker of which of hundreds of channels to watch.

view from the living room window

It is in this 5-hour window of waiting time that I have discovered my new favourite British cook, Nigella Lawson, whose Christmas Kitchen show makes me want to get up this very second and start carving those frustratingly tiny pastry molds for mince pies. There is one thing, however, which confuses me about this traditional fare: the mincemeat. Does not contain any meat. The pies consist of a gooey combination of apples, cranberries, and other dried fruits, steeped in a mix with spices. So why is it called mincemeat? Listing the ingredients, and even watching the pies' creation under Nigella's watchful eye make them seem so irresistable; and yet, I never have actually enjoyed the taste of these holiday treats. What can you expect from a country where mushy peas are a staple food?

Another British treat (not particular for any specific time of year) is the Maryland cookie. Supposedly the recipe for these "biscuits" was brought to the UK from the US over half a century ago, and has been pretty successful because whenever I tell anyone here I'm from Maryland, they say "Ooooh! Like the cookie!" That and "Do you live near Baltimore? Only 40 minutes away?! Within spitting distance of 'The Wire'! WHAT??! YOU'VE NEVER SEEN IT??!" And so it goes, continuing with my explanation that I really don't watch much TV at all, and yes, I know I need to watch it because I'm from Maryland, and ending with a promise that they will lend me their copy. Which hasn't happened yet. And so I still haven't seen it. Maybe in my time waiting for the dishwasher repairman I'll be able to .... and there's the doorbell now.

Oh, Christmas Tree

The Annapolis City Dock Christmas tree, in all it's splendor, all but a stripe of unlit lights circling the top.  This year the city chose to decorate the tree with musical instruments and ribbons; saxaphones and trumpets are scattered amidst it's branches, adorned with small red bows and scrolls of notes.  A few years ago I remember the theme was gardening tools, the tree littered with rakes and shovels.  That was quite a tree.  It's always a surprise what will show up on the City Dock tree - I wonder who's job it is to decide this?  I can imagine a man behind his desk in City Hall call out to his secretary "What should the theme of the tree be this year?" and she yells back "hmmmm... my daughter just started violin lessons - let's make it music!"  And so it is.  This year the tree is certainly a sight to see, whether or not it's fully lit.