Eating our way through Helsinki

Our weekend in Helsinki was an eating one. Whether we were hungry or not, eating was the primary activity of our 30-some hour visit - and it was wonderful.

We visited some of the city's main attractions, of course: the Lutheran Cathedral overlooking Senate Square, the Uspenski Cathedral, the newly renovated Saluhallen (open food market). We even took a ride on the Sky Wheel, which rose 40 meters above the harbor with views stretching far into the winter greyness. But all of these activities were killing time before our next meal. 

Helsinki's Lutheran Cathedral

Finns traditionally eat a delicious pastry called karjalanpiirakka for breakfast. It's made up of a thin rye crust with a thick rice porridge inside. Sometimes a mixture of hard-boiled eggs and butter is spread on top. I was skeptical of this seemingly random creation at first, but it took only one bite for me to change my mind. You must try it the next time you're in Finland - they're amazing. 

For lunch, we found a charming, cozy cafe - Armas Kitchen & Bar - in the basement of a mall on one of the main shopping avenues, and enjoyed their pulled pork and smoked salmon kebabs made from local, organic ingredients, with some very sour beer brewed in France (note to self: drink French champagne, not beer). 

Helsinki's finest department store, Stockmann

And our last meal in Helsinki was at the renowned Sea Horse restaurant, where we indulged in traditional Finnish cuisine - cabbage rolls, meatballs, schnitzel - at a table alongside one of Finland's most famous soap opera actresses. The most unusual dish on their menu was the Iced cranberries with caramel hot sauce dessert, which we ordered - and made sure to scoop up every last drop from the pitcher of caramel that came with it. 

Then it was time to get back on our ferry, Viking Lines' Mariella, for the 18-hour journey across the icy Baltic Sea and back to Stockholm. The Mariella was fully equipped with saunas and jacuzzis galore, an all-you-can-eat-and-drink buffet, duty free shopping, and a spacious dance floor in the "Fun Club." What more could we ask for? Unfortunately, we didn't make it to the dance floor - but we did get on stage for a round of karaoke. Let's just say our audience was not overly encouraging.

Helsinki is a beautiful city, even beneath grey skies, and we loved seeing it with our local guides Maija and Tommy. Thank you guys for a wonderful weekend - we'll be back!

Confessions of an American Cycler in Stockholm

From April to November, my main mode of transportation through Stockholm is my bicycle. I bought my beloved cruiser the week I first arrived in Sweden, and have been a devoted rider ever since. 

Photo by NS (and his bike too!)

Over the last couple years, I have learned a lot about cycling in this city, one of the most bike-friendly cities in the world, I should add. And I thought I was doing fairly well with my cycling competence until recently, as a series of events have unfolded, forcing me to completely rethink my form. 

Just this evening on my way home from Swedish class, I was pedaling uphill on Odengatan (one of Stockholm's busier streets) and cut left toward home. As I waited for a bus to pass before making the turn, I could just make out the face of the driver in the settling darkness - a face full of disapproval, shaking both head and finger at me for what may as well have been a mortal sin. Bus lane only: I must admit I'd thought of the possibility before, but it never seemed to be a problem for me to be there... 

Last week, I was vigorously cycling my way through the rain along Norrmälarstrand (one of the city's beautiful, waterside streets) when a stout man with glasses, a small dog, and a green umbrella with white polka dots approached the cross walk across the cycle path. I planned to sail smoothly behind him - but he stopped - forcing me to cut him off and prompting him to shriek a string of swear words in my direction while repeatedly smashing his umbrella against the ground until it broke. For a few seconds, I thought this angry fellow, whose morning I had just ruined, might actually chase me down. And on my 1-gear bike, I'm fairly certain he would've caught me. 

Which brings me to my next cycle faux pa: squeaky breaks. As you await a green light at an intersection and suddenly hear a high-pitched, screeching sound behind you, you can safely bet it is me. Oh the joys of a bike older than myself. Whether in car or on bike, there is no escaping the volume of this screech, especially on humid days. Pedestrians have actually told me how embarrassing my brakes are. Sometimes I share a sheepish chuckle with fellow-riders. But mostly I am on the receiving end of irritating glares.

Despite all of my cycle mishaps, big and small, there are a few things I do correctly: I always stay as far right as possible, allowing faster bikes (aka all bikes) to easily pass me. I wear a helmet. And I am happy to report that currently both my back and front lights are fully functional.

In conclusion, I have come to the realization that I still have a lot to learn about biking in Stockholm - and I guess it will probably be awhile before I'm doing this:

 

Visit to Copenhagen

Last weekend, NS & I took a little trip down south to visit his Mormor and Morfar in Malmö. While we were in the neighborhood, we decided to explore a new city, a new country, in my case: the city of Copenhagen, or Køpenhavn in Danish, just a 30-minute train ride from Malmö. 

along the historical waterfront canal, Nyhavn

People say Copenhagen feels more "continental" than Stockholm, and I can see what they mean. Denmark doesn't have the orderly rules of Sweden, and consequently things are more like, well, the rest of the continent, you could say. The streets are a little dirtier. The styles are a little more diverse - and people don't seem to care as much about what they're wearing. There is an "edgier" feel to the whole city.

There was construction all over Copenhagen as we navigated our way - by the train station, in squares, along pedestrian streets. But the city was still quite beautiful. There's so much color, and not just on the main historical canal, Nyhavn (pictured above). We found pastel-colored houses throughout the city center, of which we walked as much as possible in the 5-hour window of time we had. 

Not sure what this is, but I thought it was beautiful

A Danish friend - thanks TF! - recommended one of the few authentic Danish restaurants in Copenhagen's center, called Toldbod Bodega, pictured below, where we stopped for lunch.  

The restaurant operates under the motto "probably the oldest restaurant in Copenhagen." Reminds me of the motto for Carlsburg, "probably the best beer in the world" - perhaps Danes don't like to jump to conclusions? 

However old it is, Toldbod Bodega did not disappoint. The cozy atmosphere warmed us up, along with the beer (brewed on-site) and snaps. We sat surrounded by elderly groups of Danes who ordered beers along with full bottles of snaps - our tiny shots dwarfed in comparison. I ordered a traditional Danish dish called Shooting Star: fried and poached plaice served with caviar and shrimps. It was delicious!

Our exploration continued through the Kastellet, Copenhagen's fort, to the Little Mermaid statue, which was just that - a small statue of a mermaid surrounded by dozens of tourists trying to get their picture taken with her. I have to admit I was one of them. Notice she actually does have legs which turn into fins at the ends... 

I loved Copenhagen. And 5 hours gave us only a small taste of what this exciting city has to offer... but I hope to visit again sometime soon!